SUMMER 2019, PART 3: MEXICO CITY

Many of you know Mexico City, a place with 21 million, 621 thousand, 908 habitants, making it the 5th biggest city of the world after Tokyo, Delhi, Shanghai, and Sao Paolo. The city was built in 1521 on top of another far more ancient city, Tenochtitlán, which was the capital of the Aztec (Mexica) Empire, built in 1325.

Because of colonization, the city has three races among its habitants: Indigenous people, Mestizos, and criollos.

Indigenous people are the native people of the country; they are also the poorest and most discriminated.

The middle class in Mexico City is composed of Mestizos, which are a mixed of Indigenous and European--enter me. I am a mestizo man, born from a Mexican mother (who is Purepecha (from the Michoacán State) and a European father. (To my surprise, not a Spanish man but an English man--and no, I won't talk about that.)

The last group of people in Mexico City are the Criollos-- European/Spanish born in Mexico (not mixed) which are white, wealthy, and the ones with the most privilege.

Mexico City was known as "El Distrito Federal" (Federal District) until January 2016 where the District became a City and a state. Today Mexico City is known as CDMX (Ciudad de México). This change is important because those living in the federal district had different laws, regulations, and benefits which didn't really benefited the habitants since congress gave more benefits to geographical areas classified as towns, cities, and states. There is more factors involved in the change and how they work for the habitants but I really don't know them all nor do I have the time or desire to explain them. Just know before 2016 Mexico as a country had 31 states and 1 federal district. Today it has 32 states the newest state is known as Mexico.

One of my favorite things about CDMX is "El Metro." The subway system is one of the most colorful, most modern, fastest, and most complex but also very efficient public transportation system in the world. It is incredibly easy to use. It is always packed with people, especially at rush hour but no matter its intricacy and its many stairs to climb up and down, making you tired very easily. the metro is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to travel in the city. I LOVE EL METRO.

For $5 pesos, less than 15 cents, you can ride the metro and literately cross the entire city one way. Not only that but the entire subway system is so large and the stations (especially transfer stations) are so huge that many have permanent exhibitions, some house museums, and other station actually have mini shopping centers, while others have small stores and restaurants, especially those that become transfer stations. 

Mexico City covers an area of around 571 square miles with an elevation of about 7,349 ft. Yes, it is the largest city in the entire American continent.

A couple of images from my neighborhood and last but not least: El metro!

Well, this vacations were awesome! Let's see what trip comes next! Thanks for reading, stay tune!

SUMMER 2019, PART 2-E: LUNES DE CERRO (LA GUELAGUETZA)

Guelaguetza is a Zapotec word that means "ofrenda," (offering). So, The Guelaguetza means the offering. And what an offering it is! Seven Oaxaca regions, 14 delegations (two from each region), five dances from each delegation and three hours of culture, emotions, and Indigenous Pride!

The Guelaguetza starts with the welcoming and acknowledgment of the Indigenous women from all seven regions and the Guelaguetza queen. This year, the queen was Afro-Mexican.with the call to arms by the Indigenous people band that marches around the stage to remind everyone that Oaxaca is a land of Indigenous ancestry and always ready for battle to defend its land, traditions, and people. It was immediately follow by Las Chinas Oaxaqueñas, which is the main delegation from Oaxaca who welcomes the other delegations and invites them to come onto the space.

After that, an announcer says what delegations goes first, and they go up onstage, explain where they come from, who they are and why are they there. They dance their dances, which tell stories of their people and their customs. It is very emotional to see "not professional dancers" but actual people from the different communities dance with pride, telling their town's stories and traditions.

Some dances are very high-energy while others are slow and low energy but all dances are done with the outmost respect and received with much enthusiasm. One of the most anticipated dances are:

 "El Baile de la Piña"

and "El Baile de la Pluma."

The most anticipated delegations is the one from Tehuantepec!

There is truly something very humbling watching not dancers but people from every region offering their art to the world. It becomes very emotional and very personal.

I mean, check out these women. They aren't young but they are there, dancing and offering their Indigenous souls to all of us watching. And all the costumes are so beautiful and so colorful.

Miguel and I had a great time and there is really so much to see that it is difficult to pick a favorite or the best moment to remember. We truly loved everything.

And so did the other 11,000 people attending LA GUELAGUETZA 2019

And we all have reason to love it... Just look at this dresses, dancers and their energy, and the reception from the audience:

NEXT: MEXICO CITY!!!

SUMMER 2019, PART 2-D: MONTE ALBAN & ALEBRIJES

According to our tour guide, Monte Albán is the most important site for Oaxaca people. And after reading so much about this and that in relation to Oaxaca, I happen to agree.

Monte Albán is a big stunning archeological site. It's architecture is unique and also resembles the architecture found in Teotihuacán (Aztec Empire). There is a reason for that and it has to do with how the Aztec Empire won wars against other Indigenous groups and also about the many treaties made through commerce.

Monte Albán was the most important capital city for the Zapotec (Oaxaca Indigenous people) and it was built on a mountain overlooking the valley where the capital of the state is today. According to research, Monte Albán was the main city from about 700 BCA until sometime in the 9th century.

Monte Albán's original name was, for the mexica: Ocelotepec (Jaguar Mountain), for the Zapotec it was Dani Beexde (also meaning Jaguar Mountain), and for the Mixtec it was known as Yúcu-cúi, which means Green Mountain. Today's name was given by the Spanish colonizers because the views from Monte Albán resemble the views and mountains of the Italian Alps.

One of the most impressive findings in Monte Albán, at least to me, is the many flat rock drawings of warrior prisoners who were castrated and then, "drawn" to be remembered by the enemies. "This will happen to you too!" It's just fascinating.

Oaxaca is known for its Alebrijes. But the birth of such colorful figurines isn't in Oaxaca but in Mexico City. For those who do not know what an alebrije is, here's a picture:

Now, an alebrije isn't just a cute figurine. There is a very long history about what an alebrije is and what it means so...

In the beginning, there was a man, Pedro Linares López, who lived in Mexico City. At some point he got very sick and for a period of time he went into an "unconscious state." While family members thought he was going to die, Pedro Linares López was actually in a fantastical journey through the woods where a variety of strange creatures lived. These fantastical creatures helped him get out of the woods and into the light (conciseness).

These journey had a great significance for Pedro. First of all, he saw creatures he had never seen in his life, donkeys with wings, lions with dog heads, roosters with with horns, and so many other strange animals that he couldn't describe. Second, the creatures were walking with him guiding him through the woods, helping him find his way. And third, while walking with Pedro, the creatures kept mentioning just one word: "alebrijes." When Pedro Linares López gained consciousness, the first words out of his mouth were "Alebrijes! Alebrijes!"

Pedro was a "cartonero" (a person who collects cardboard boxes on the street in order to sell them). His experience as a cartonero gave him the ability to manipulate cardboard in many ways. After his vision, he used the cardboard to shape it into the many figures he saw. He then painted them in many colors. He called his artistic creations, "alebrijes."

Slowly, his visionary creations started to appear in Mexico City, then in the country and soon in Europe, Asia and later in the United States. Pedro Linares López went from a very poor man (a cartonero) to a world renown artist in just a few years. His family also became artists and Pedro taught his children how to make paper maché alebrijes.

In 1990, Pedro received the National Arts & Sciences Prize for his artistic work and for his contribution to the arts, nationally and internationally. By the time Pedro Linares López died (in 1992), he created a family of alebrije artists who would continue his vision to today.

So, how does Oaxaca becomes to be known as the place for alebrijes? Pedro Linares López gave many workshops around the country and the many people  from Oaxaca learned Pedro's technique. With the time, the Oaxaca artists mixed their carving wood techniques with Pedro's paper maché techniques, perfecting craft. Oaxaca alebrijes are made of wood while Mexico City alebrijes are made of paper maché.

One thing to remember is that the process of making an alebrije takes at least a month, whether it is made of paper or wood, each step is carefully followed and time is given for both the paper and wood to be ready to use for shaping and painting.

One more thing to remember is that each alebrije is unique, no two alebrijes will ever be same, and that has to do with the artists using their imagination to create/carve/paint/decorate each piece. True alebrijes (both paper and wood) are made as single unit, there are no molds to make them. Also each piece is painted/decorated by a single person so no two alebrijes will ever look similar at all.

Alebrijes take time to make and they are made by one single person they can take at least a month to make (depending of its size) or even up to six months. The smaller the piece, the expensive it can become because of its intricate design. Big pieces are also expensive, but not for the carving but for the painting decoration because the techniques and details are so incredibly well done that it does take a true artist to come out with such beautiful pieces.

NEXT: LUNES DE CERRO (Mondays on the Hill) LA GUELAGUETZA PRESENTATION!

SUMMER 2019, PART 2-D: DONAJI, THE LEYEND

Legend tells of the story of a beautiful woman named "Donají" who was the daughter of Zapotec King Cosijoeza (1450-1504) who governed the kingdom of Zaachila and was the master in keeping the Spaniards from taken over the land (although the Spaniards did take over many areas, including Mitla, they were defeated by an alliance between Zapotec and Mixtec Indigenous people who united to take back their kingdoms from the colonizers. 

But I digress:

When Donají was born, (her name means alma grande-big soul) a Zapotec priest from Mitla told the queen and the king that the heavens show a sing about their daughter, "She is going to sacrifice herself for the love to her own Zapotec people." 

When Donají was a teenager, her people, the Zapotecs were at war with the Mixtecs. During one of their many battles, Prince Nucano, who lead the Mixtec was wounded and taken prisoner by the Zapotec. It was during his imprisonment that Donají took care of the wounded prince, and they both felt in love with each other.

Unfortunately, the Zapotec people lost the battle and Prince Nucano was rescued. Then, the Mixtec King under the advice of his son, asked the King Cosijoeza for Donají, who would served as a peace offering and as a guaranty that the Zapotec would not break any peace treaties. And so, Princess Donají and Prince Nucano got married. 

The couple lived a very happy life but Donají was never allowed to go back to her people. Legend says that Donají's grandfather came to her in a dream and told her that she needed to go back to her people for they were sad and felt unlucky without her. So, one day while her husband, Prince Nucano, was out doing business with the Aztecs, Princess Donají sent one of her own servants with a message to her father. The message: Prince Nucano and most of his warriors are in Technotitlán, come at night an rescue me. And so they did.

At night the Zapotec warriors went into Monte Albán and stormed the city by surprise, killing many of its citizens and warriors. During the surprised attack, Princes Donají waited in her room. Soon, a dark landed on her door, which was the sign needed for her to exit and be taken back to her father the king. Unfortunately, two of the Mixtec soldiers realized what was happening and also figured out that the attack on Monte Albán had been done under Princess Donají's orders. Quickly, the two Mixtec soldiers took Donají with them and beheaded her, then buried her body so it could never be found. 

When Prince Nucano came back and found out his wife had been killed because of her betrayal and asked where her body was, no on knew because the two soldiers that killed her and burie her were killed during the surprised attack. Prince Nucano, went to war against the Zapotec, because they brook their peace treaty, took over their kingdom but promised to rule them with respect due to his love for Donají. It is here where both the Mixtec and the Zapotec became "one nation" and the prophecy about Donají was fulfilled, "she would be sacrificed for her own people."

Many years later, when Spain rained the Mexican territory, a shepherd boy who was walking near the Atoyac River (near the Oaxacan Airport today) saw a white lily. At the time, lily's were considered exotic flowers so he decided to uproot it. To his surprise, the roots were attached to what seem to be a woman's head. He then ran to the town and told them about it. Soon the people uncovered the head and body and seeing that both were uncorrupted realized it was the body of Princess Donají. They took the body and honored her death giving her proper burial. 

Today, Donají's tomb is located in the now abandoned ex-monastery of Saint Santiago Apostol, also a cultural site and museum. One of the most important facts to remember about Oaxaca people is that even though they were introduced to Christian believes, they still practice Indigenous religion. So, it is not surprising to find both Christian and Zapotec/Mixtec religious practices/artifact fused together. 

The ex-monastery has a small chapel that is so important to the Oaxaca people that even Pope John Paul II gave a mass here during one of his visits. The reason for the chapel, to house the tomb of Donají

And this is why Oaxaca as a state is one of the most intriguing places to visit. There is so much pride and joy about being Indigenous here, and there is an infinite amount of Indigenous practices all over that it is simply humbling an so emotional to be a person of color.

"Donají: the legend," (dance format) presented by the Oaxaca Ballet during the Guelaguetza 2019. 

NEXT: MONTE ALBÁN & ALEBRIJES!

SUMMER 2019, PART 2-C: CALENDA MUXE

According to Pablo Céspedes Vargas, in his article Muxes at work: Belonging belonging between the community and heteronormativity, "what we know, from an occidental point of view, a man dressing like a woman, a trans man, or a gay man is included under the term MUXE as long as there is a strong Indigenous identity." 

In Zapotec cultures of Oaxaca (southern Mexico), specially in the istmo of Tehuantepec, a muxe (also spelled muxhe) is a person who is assigned male or female at birth, but who dresses or behaves in ways otherwise associated with the other binary gender; they may be seen as a third gender.Some marry women while others choose a man or other muxe as their spouse.

During one afternoon, while Miguel and I were getting ready to go to dinner, we heard music and fireworks very close to us. We finished getting ready as quickly as possible and decided to check out the commotion... because we knew a delegation was gathering near by.

To our surprise, the delegation gathering at the plaza near us was La Delegación de la Diversidad Sexual (The Sexual Diversity Delegation), known as the "Alliance for Sexual Diversity in Oaxaca State." As soon as we found out, Miguel and I were very excited for this was a delegation for queer people, for the MUXE of Oaxaca. 

We soon ask them permission to take pictures, which they gave us. We also asked them if we could pose with them; they said yes. 

The muxe wore incredible dresses, which represent the area where many of them come from, Tehuantepec. Other queer people either wore traditional Oaxacan male garments (white guayabera, white pants, huaraches, straw hat, and red handkerchief) or just regular clothing. 

Two things I find clever about the delegation are: 1)The banner, which has an image of Saint Sebastian, a catholic saint that has always been considered a homoerotic symbol and has been the subject of many gay theme stories and films, and the name of their music band "La mas querida" (The Most Loved), making reference to a very famous song by the later Juan Gabriel, Mexico's famous gay singer. 

There is a "play-on-words" with the title of the music band, which is clever, funny, and gay. Sorry, I'm not going to try to explain it. 

About 40 minutes after our arrival, and after the police checked that all permissions were in order, (yes, the police is always involved in the Calendas for they have to be in front and behind to keep traffic at bay), the calenda was about to begin, they invited us to join and joined we did. 

Enjoy:

NEXT: "DONAJI, THE LEGEND"

SUMMER 2019, PART 2-C: CALENDAS

A calenda is basically a parade filled with laughter, dance, music, and displays of people's cultures. 

The word calenda comes from the Greek and in a few words it is a calling to come together and celebrate one's religious practices. In Oaxaca, however, a calenda goes beyond religion for it also celebrates Indigenous practices, traditions and culture. 

The state of Oaxaca is divided into seven geographical areas and each area has different Indigenous communities. During the Guelaguetza Festival, the different communities come to Oaxaca to participate in exhibitions, dances, music concerts, food expositions, drinking (mainly mezcal) expositions, and arts and crafts expositions. 

While the Guelaguetza Festival happens during the entire month of July, it is during the last two weeks of the month when the festivities intensify. This has to do with two main factors: 1) Lunes de cerro (Mondays of the Hill) and 2) Las Candelas de las delegaciones (The Delegations' Candelas). I will talk about Mondays of the Hill in another post. This post is all about the calendas.

As part of the celebrations, each region is allowed to bring a minimum of one delegation and maximum of three delegations per region. The delegation represents a specific community from one of the seven regions of the state. Some delegations are composed of two or more different communities within a region, depending on the size of the community and economic factors.

During the last two weeks of Guelaguetza Festival, these delegations gather at a specific time and place and walk down the streets from "Point A to point B." Point A is their gathering area and Point B is the Oaxaca's city's main plaza: El Zócalo.

Each delegation has an estandarte (banner) which lets people know to what communit(ies) they belong and from what region. And as they walk down the streets, they dance, yell the name of their community and region, throw random gifts to onlookers, and share mezcal shots with many.

In short, the whole calenda is a celebration of culture, religion, art, dance, music, and Indigenous practices. Best experience ever!!!

Here's a short video showing one the calendas:

Next: THE MUXE!

SUMMER 2019, PART 2-B: HIERVE EL AGUA & MITLA

As a captal, Oaxaca is the main hub for taking tours around the entire state. One of the tours we took was to Hierve el Agua and Mitla.

Hierve el agua (Water that Boils) is located about 60 km (37 miles) east of the Oaxaca. Par of the way there is through a brand new toll highway and part is through a very winding unpaved narrow road. It is frightening to see vehicles driving through such unpaved road because on the way to Hierve el agua, the passenger side sees a cliff (about 30 meters-98 feet) down. and on the way back the passenger side sees that.

Once in Hierve el agua though, it is a beautiful sight. With thermal waters springing from the mountain and creating natural pools for people to swim while enjoying the natural beauty of the entire mountains and valley.

After Hierve el agua, we headed to MITLA, the land of the underworld, dedicated to the God Mitlantecutli and the most important place for the Zapotec people.

Mitla is small but its importance to the Indigenous people of Oaxaca, specially during Day of the Dead, is indescribable.

During our visits to both Hierve el agua and Mitla, we stopped in three other places. A place where Indigenous people hand make zarapes and many other artifacts made of wool, a mezcal distillery, and a town with the longest living tree.

This image aboves hows the place where people dye the wool with all natural resources. It was amazing to see how they use natural material from the area to create such beautiful colors.

The image above shows a grinder where the already cooked and marinated maguey is thrown so the giant rock, pulled by a donkey, can grind the cooked mezcal in order to extract the juice, which will be treated, fermented, and left in barrels for different periods of time to create the different elixirs of the Gods: Mezcal.

The image above is from the town of TULE and the tree you see in the background is the longest living tree, with more than 2000 years in existence. Information available on the site states that the trunk is about 42 meters (137 ft) in diameter or circumference and 35 meters (116 ft) high.

Although not visible in this image, the trunk shows images of animals such as jaguars and elephants, horses, and more... for this reason, El árbol de Tule (The Tree of Tule) is also known as El árbol de la vida (The Tree of Life), which is the inspiration for the many variations of the "tree of life sculptures."

An example of a tree of life sculpture.

NEXT: CALENDAS!